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Meade Zero Image Shift-Electronic Micro-Focuser for the LX200-ACF Telescope |  |
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Telescope Electronic
I'm going to buy a telescope, should I go fully electronic or manual?
So Australian Geographic sell a variety of telescopes and such ranging from around $500 - $1500.
I'm looking specifically at two;
The first is one of the most expensive in the pack. It is completely computerised (40 000 objects or something), you can connect it to your PC and take photo's through the the lens.
The other is a very good, manual telescope. It is not nearly as expensive and it has some pretty handy features (it automatically flips the image to look the right way up for instance).
This is just purely for an interest in astronomy and I have always wanted a good telescope. But I have never owned one before, so I don't know which I should go for...What do you think, electronic or manual?
If this is your first telescope, I would advise patience. You may eventually find that neither of these is ideal. I say that for the following reasons:
1. The computer may well have 40,000 objects stored in its database. That does not mean you can see them all. In fact, depending on the configuration of the scope itself, you may not be able to see more than 10 or so. There are times when a computer is helpful. If the weather is marginal, with objects hiding behind spotty clouds - or if the light pollution is awful, then a computer makes sense. But in those conditions, you can't see things very well anyway. Under reasonably good sky conditions, I have personally found it much more rewarding to learn the night sky and find the objects myself. I cannot tell you how many times I have set up my scope and observed three or more objects while the guy next to me is swearing and rebooting his darn computer. He finally gets it functioning, only to watch as it hums and clicks and eventually points his scope at M42, or some other target that I can see just by looking up. Learning the sky is half the fun. It can be frustrating, but you miss out on a lot if you skip that step.
2. Flipping the image is not meaningful in an astronomical scope. It is useful for terrestrial viewing during daylight hours, but stars and planets and galaxies look pretty much the same regardless of their orientation in the eyepiece. More important, the extra components required to flip the image add extra glass to the light path before it reaches your eye. This results in added distortion and aberration, which is really a problem for astronomers. An erecting prism on a telescope is usually a sign of a scope that is either not meant for astronomy or is not a very good scope. It is not worth any extra investment at all.
It sounds like you are not that familiar with what is really important in looking for a telescope. That's why it is critical that you not rush into this purchase. You need to understand things like:
1. Aperture - essentially the diameter of the scope. This determines what you can and cannot see, since it determines how many photons you collect. Most astronomical objects are not too small to see, they are too dim to see. Aperture is very important.
2. Mount design - a solid mount is essential, a computer is not.
3. Transportability and ease of setup - Most beginners think they will do most of their observing alone - in the back yard. Most experienced amateurs observe with others. it can get cold and lonely out there. If you buy a scope that is difficult to move, you will quickly stop using it.
4. Cost - You get what you pay for - as long as you know what to look for. Your budget sounds realistic to acquire a good scope. Now you need to understand what that means.
If possible, I would look up the nearest local amateur astronomy club on line. Go to a few open observing sessions (star parties). You will receive a warm welcome and get an opportunity to try before you buy. This is critical, so that you can establish your expectations before you spend that money. Look through several scopes and see what works for you. Ask questions. See what is expensive, and what isn't. I suspect that you will eventually find that - for this amount of money - your best option may be a Dobsonian reflector with an 8 to 10 inch aperture, like this:
http://www.telescope.com/control/product/~category_id=classicdobs/~pcategory=dobsonians/~product_id=08947
This an excellent choice for beginners, and you can use the leftover cash for some accessories, which you will eventually need. Good Luck and Clear Skies!
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|
Meade Zero Image Shift-Electronic Micro-Focuser for the LX200-ACF Telescope | |
|
US $249.00 | 25d 41m |
|
TA35-P Digital colour electronic eyepiece for telescope | |
|
US $47.44 | 16d 21h 33m |
|
New Orion AccuFocus Electronic Telescope Focuser | |
|
US $63.74 | 22d 22h 12m |
|
MEADE DIGITAL ELECTRONIC TELESCOPE MODEL# DS-190EC NEW OPEN BOX | |
|
US $179.99 | 26d 6h 35m |
|
BUSHNELL NORTH STAR ELECTRONIC TELESCOPE WITH A HANDHELD CONTROL | |
|
US $145.00 | 25d 5h 52m |
|
MEADE Model DS127 Telescope with Tripod, Electronic Digital Series | |
|
US $219.99 | 24d 21h 15m |
|
Meade ETX-90EC 90mm Astronomical Telescope w/ Electronic Controller - New In Box | |
|
US $989.00 | 5d 1h 11m |
|
BUSHNELL SKY TOUR ELECTRONIC 700MM X 3" REFLECTOR BLACK GLOSS TELESCOPE 78-9930 | |
|
US $89.99 | 16m |
|
CELESTRON MOTOFOCUS ELECTRONIC (AUTOMATIC) TELESCOPE FOCUS MOTOR FOR NEXSTAR SE8 | |
19 Bids | US $57.00 | 9h 59m |
|
Konus Konusmotor Electronic 500 Newton 114mm (4.5") Telescope 1781 Telescopes | |
|
US $159.95 | 12d 6h 37m |
|
Meade Electronic Eyepiece Telescope camera STANDARD COMPOSITE VIDEO OUT. NIB!! | |
1 Bid | US $9.99 | 1d 45m |
|
Meade ETX-90EC Telescope w/ Electronic Controller + Lenses Sun Filter Software | |
0 Bid | US $379.00 | 2d 8h 45m |
|
Meade ETX-90 Maksutov Cassegrain Telescope with Tripod and Electronic Remote | |
24 Bids | US $167.52 | 3d 2h 8m |
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DIY Electronic Eyepiece for telescope
How are electronic model numbers created?
Like:
the new Sony HTP58094382 digital whatever.
stands for : Hardy, Telescoping, Picturetaker, + number of manhours spent making it. ?
Each company has a different methodology for how they assign models.
USually they have a couple letters describing the type of device, a number indicating version or revision, and sub letters for certain options, or international versions.
